COLLARS AND CUFFS
By "A.M.B."
The Girl's Own Paper (April 11, 1903)
Some few months ago I was very much interested in an article which appeared in this paper on the "Furnishing of an Ideal Laundry." It struck me then that many readers might possibly be grateful if a few instructions were given so that they could get up things at home, even where there is no attempt at an ideal laundry.
We hear so many complaints of garments being spoilt and ruined if sent to public laundries, and if sent to private laundries the results are more annoying if not so fatal. The limp collar that is unwearable after being worn an hour, the blouse that looks crushed before it is worn at all - these are some of the penalties one has to pay if the latter are employed. And we think we must put up with either of these alternatives, merely because most girls think it impossible to manage these things at home. Time and one other important item, i.e., common-sense, are necessary, and then with clear instructions there ought to be excellent results.
While I write I am reminded of a lady friend’s experience. Her husband had just built a new commodious house, and she with praiseworthy energy determined to have all her laundry-work done at home, undertaking to get up the starched things herself. Alas! when it came to the point, and she saw with bewilderment the basketful of fresh snowy linen ready for her to "get up," she was at an utter loss to know how to begin. Was it necessary to use hot or cold starch? After starching, ought things to be dried? And various other problems presented themselves. But my friend was not to be daunted, so with more will than knowledge began her task. It was some years ago, before I had any practical or theoretical knowledge of the subject on which I am writing, and I happened to call just at that vexatious stage when the irons would stick and take off more of the starch than was apparently put on in the beginning. I could offer no help, and still remember how dreadfully sorry I felt as she struggled with crumpled and hopeless collars and cuffs. No success attended on that occasion, but after a time, by dint of perseverance and many trials in mixing starch and testing the heat of irons, experience rewarded repeated efforts with unqualified success. Now, as much the same experience was gone through by a girl who kept house for a brother in the country, I cannot help but feel that there are many of our girl-readers who will be glad to know how to avoid pitfalls if, from divers reasons, they wish to perfect themselves in the art of laundry-work. It was only today that a young fellow-guest in the same house in which I am also a visitor was asking me pertinent questions on this subject, and as I know she has strong feelings that love is quite compatible with a proverbial cottage if one sharer of the said cottage is capable and willing to do a good part of the domestic work herself, it was with real pleasure that I answered her inquiries.
I speak of laundry-work as an art, and I do so advisedly, and, indeed, I might add science as well, for to do anything intelligently we must know the reason why certain rules are followed. The science of a subject invariably renders it more interesting even in such mundane subjects as those which are purely domestic.
The suggestions and hints I am longing to give are so manifold I hardly know where to begin. Strictly speaking, it ought to be on the simplest processes, but we all know how often the simplest task is also the most dull, albeit, too, the most useful. For instance, what girl is there who would not prefer attempting to make a toothsome cake in preference to learning to cook a dish of potatoes, or the working of a dainty table-centre to that of darning a stocking. I will therefore be indulgent and, instead of beginning with, we will say, pocket-handkerchiefs, take the more elaborate process of getting up collars and cuffs, as appealing to more of my readers in point of interest. It will make matters clearer if I write under the headings of the different processes. Our first will be -
First Process, Steeping. - This is most important and should be done some hours previous to the washing, all night if possible. Put the collars and cuffs into a bowl with enough water to well cover. Soap each, taking care to turn the edges down so that they get a good soaping at the same time. I attach importance to the steeping for two reasons. Primarily it is to loosen the dirt, and one has only to look at the steeping water to be convinced of this and thus save time in the actual washing. Secondly, the old starch is soaked out, which, if left in, would make smoothness and glossiness an impossibility.
Second Process, Washing. - Wring out of the steeping water and well wash in warm soap and water until clean. When rain-water is obtainable, it is not only much better in every respect for laundry purposes, but also considerably more economical, as much less soap is required. But comparatively few people can command soft water, for even when collected it is often useless from the fact that its contact with dust and smoke renders it unfit for cleansing purposes. I would strongly advise that hard water be softened in some way though, to reduce labour and to make that labour a pleasurable task, which it can never be when the water is hard and the soap will not mix properly with it. Speaking broadly, I might say that until the soap forms a lather with the water, we cannot get effectual cleansing. By softening the water before use, a much smaller amount of soap will effect this. Soda and borax are the two most effective softening agents. Both need careful using, particularly the former, which, although it has the desirable advantage of cheapness (fourteen pounds for sixpence), has also the great disadvantage of discolouring linen, even leaving a brown stain if not thoroughly dissolved before using. It is also irritating to tender skin, and for that reason should never be used for babies’ clothes. Borax, which is fourpence a pound, is quite harmless, and besides being a detergent (cleanser) also possesses bleaching properties. The proper proportion of these ingredients is one ounce (one tablespoonful) to each gallon of water. Dissolve in a cupful of boiling water before adding to the bulk. In passing, I may as well mention that this is a wise precaution to take with all washing powders (many of which are very good), and thus avoid the tiny brown specks they impart to the linen if used in a dry state.
Third Process, Boiling. - Have a pan or copper rather more than half full of water, softened as above. Shred into it some shreds of yellow soap, about a quarter of a pound to a gallon, but this depends upon the hardness of the water. Now take the washed things and put them in a bag kept for the purpose (an old pillow-case answers admirably), which must have a small hole at each corner to prevent the bag floating on the top of the water like a balloon, which, of course, would also prevent the boiling process being efficacious. By using a bag, any inadvertent scum that may settle on the water is prevented from spoiling the appearance of the linen. It is also much easier to lift a bag out of the boiling water than it would be to take a few collars and cuffs at a time. After the bag has been put in, bring the water to the boil and then keep it boiling for ten to fifteen minutes. Remove the bag with a wooden stick into a vessel of clean water, and begin the -
Fourth Process, Rinsing. - This must be done most thoroughly if the result is to be snowy whiteness. Plenty of water must be used, and the collars and cuffs rinsed until there is not a trace of soap left in the material, which has now accomplished its end, i.e., cleansing, and if any be left in the fabric the next step will be a failure.
Fifth Process, Blueing. - Have a tub of clear cold water, into which squeeze the blue-bag until the water is of a deep blue when seen in the bulk. Take two or three of the collars at a time, and merely pass through the blue-water until they take a bluish tinge. If any of the soap should be left in, we shall find instead of a bluish a greyish tint, which gives a stained appearance. Streakiness in the blueing is caused by allowing things to lie in the tub, or by not stirring up the water frequently. The small blocks of blue are composed of a very fine powder which enter into the linen, giving the desired hue, and as this is not soluble it very soon sinks to the bottom of the vessel; therefore I lay stress on the necessity of merely passing collars through, and by no means allowing anything to lie in the water. Dry, if possible, in the open air until, to use a homely phrase, they are "as dry as a bone." It more convenient for drying if the collars and cuffs are threaded on a piece of string.
Sixth Process, Starching; - We shall use cold water starch, and the ingredients for making it are as follows: - Two tablespoonfuls of starch, three teacupfuls (one pint) of cold water, two teaspoonfuls of powdered borax (this is to give gloss), two or three shreds of curd or ordinary yellow soap (this to make the iron run smoothly). The soap and borax must be dissolved in a small amount of boiling water. Put the starch into a clean basin, add the cold water and mix with the fingers until there are no lumps, then add the borax and soap. Strain through muslin to ensure its being absolutely free from dust. This starch is much better if made a day or two before it is required for use; it should be covered over to keep it clean. Turpentine may replace the soap in making starch, but I do not like it nearly so well, for unless it is most sparingly used (four drops to a pint), it will leave an unpleasant smell and possibly a brown tinge.
There are many good brands of starch to be obtained that I need not mention any special one. Some require nothing but water, as they are already prepared with borax, etc., for use. Directions are always given in such cases on the packet. One test of good starch is that after it has stood for a time, a firm white cake is formed at the bottom of the basin; inferior starch also settles at the bottom but with this difference: instead of a smooth cake it is rough and lumpy. After making the starch as described, take two or at most three collars or cuffs, plunge them into it, and well rub, or to speak more correctly, wash them in the starch until the linen is well saturated. Wring them out and place on a clean plate until all are finished in the same way. Carefully look over each to see that no loose starch is left on the surface; if it is, the tablespoonfuls of that ingredient were too large, and a little more water must be added. Pull each collar and cuff into shape and arrange them on a clean cloth. Roll up, and let them lie for an hour or two. Where time is an object, twenty or thirty minutes may do, but is not advisable.
Seventh Process, Ironing. - Choose a firm table for ironing upon, cover with some thick material - an old blanket is best - over this stretch a piece of spotless calico. So much depends upon the irons that a little space must be devoted to them. There is no occasion for me to describe this useful article, which is to be found in everybody’s house, I should say. Two are the smallest number we can possibly manage, without great waste of time. The most convenient size for amateurs is No.3. The larger sizes are more difficult to manipulate. When the irons are new, or if they become the least bit rusty, rub them on powdered bath-brick, and put to get hot, then apply the bath-brick again, after which pass them over a greased paper, and finally rub all over with an old duster. Irons that are in constant use will not require the bath-brick but the greased paper and duster are always imperative. Test the heat of the iron on a piece of clean damp rag; if it sticks it is too cool, if it scorches it is too hot, but if it passes over quite easily without leaving a mark, then it is properly heated, and you can begin on the cuffs and collars. Place one at a time on the ironing-table wrong side uppermost, smooth out the creases with an old pocket-handkerchief, working them towards the edges as they disappear there. Be sure to get the article into its proper shape before attempting to place the iron upon it. When this is done, take the heated and cleaned iron firmly in the right hand and pass it lightly over the wrong side, using the left hand for guiding and keeping the cuff in shape; turn it over and now press more heavily with the iron on the right side; turn again and repeat this until the cuff is stiff and dry.
Eighth Process, Polishing. - The irons that are used for this process differ from the ordinary ones; the surface, instead of being flat, is rounded, and for this reason they always take much longer to get hot. They are cleaned in exactly the same way as the flat-iron, but need even more care. No.1 size or the smaller size is the best to get if you are buying new polishing-irons; they range in price from tenpence to one and fourpence. This glossing of linen is certainly rather troublesome until one has had some experience, but the art is well worth mastering, for collars not only look far better, but last clean longer. Remove the blanket from one end of the table, leaving it covered with the calico merely. Glossing must be done on a hard surface. Place the cuff with the right side uppermost this time, damp it slightly with the wet rag (this damping is essential to successful polishing) then with a hot polisher rub backwards and forwards until a smooth even polish is obtained. Use the point of the iron for doing the corners. When absolutely dry, take a cool flat-iron and press on one end of the collar on the wrong side then with the left hand draw it from under the iron sharply; do this once or twice until the collar is "curled".
Ninth Process, Airing. - This is the last process, but a very important one. The least moisture left in the linen will effectually take off the polish. To prevent this, place all the collars and cuffs when finished on a tray, put on the plate-rack, or in front of the fire and leave until quite dry. In my anxiety on one occasion to have my morning’s work perfection, I put a trayful of beautiful glossy linen in a very cool oven to air. Imagine my horror on going to take them out a little later to find them all of a tempting biscuit colour! Moral: Avoid the oven for airing purposes.